Expedition Blog

All Rivers Lead to the Heart

Expedition Log - Coles & Granger Ltd. Expeditions - The Lost Letters from Egypt - 17 days before Expedition Launch.

Dear Diary, February 22, 1922; Burton's attendant came this morning for my trunk, and the rest of my belongings will be stowed away at Professor Burton's fine home in the Old section of Cairo, a very lively neighborhood. I collect my satchel with my journal and my golden cat and head to the lobby to wait for professor Burton to call. I am ready for whatever this journey may bring, and I anticipate great things.

Dear Diary, February 22, 2009: I have thought of this deeply. What does it matter what is real or what is the truth? What interests me is my great grandmother's gusto for life, adventure and romance, her confidence, her creativity, her daring. Her extensive knowledge, intellect and wherewithal and her anticipation- her belief rather- that "great" things are in store for her on every horizon. Maybe I just never believed great things would happen to me. It never occurred to me that I could think that way.  And reading Grandmother's journal has given me inspiration. I'm sketching, researching and finding a vitality I have never known, and always felt was reserved for others. What she gives me is far richer than any facts.  Facts are dead lists on a sheet of paper. I would rather be a living breathing writing, sketching traveling kind of woman. I'm starting to believe in Kesmet. I'm beginning to believe, no, let me just say it as so, as yes, this is my truth, my new belief system: great things are about to happen to me too!

www.destinyvoyages.com/Egypt2009/

Egypt & The Nile with Juliana Coles March 11-22, 2009

Two Lions of the Horizon

Expedition Log - Coles & Granger Ltd. Expeditions - The Lost Letters from Egypt - 18 days before Expedition Launch.

February 21, 1922, Dear Diary;  Today is my last full day in Cairo, and I am at that moment of time between past and future, yesterday and today, dawn and sunset.  Tomorrow I set forth on the grand adventure on the Dahabiyya Hadeel, exploring the Nile with Professor Burton, and attempting to solve the mystery of the golden cat. 

Right now there is only this moment, this horizon,  Akhet.  Guarded by Sef and Duau, "yesterday" and "today".  I cherish this precious moment, this pause, and try to hold it still, but I know Time is moving forward.  The Egyptians often placed lions at the doors of palaces and tombs to guard them against evil spirits and malevolent beings.  I hope the lions will guard me on the journey that lies ahead.

February 21, 2009, Dear Diary:  There is no mention of the unknown Pharaoh or the cartouche that appeared in her dream of the day before this, or of her discovery.   Just that final delicious moment of anticipation and anxiety before setting out on a long-awaited journey.  Savoring that sweet moment just before setting foot outside the door and crossing the threshold, the beginning of the journey of  a lifetime.  

Ah, I sigh to myself.  I too would like to set out on such a grand journey.  I look up the word in Arabic, and it is "safra" ( سفرة ), from which the Swahili word "safari" came.  I learn that this wonderful word was introduced to English by Sir Richard Burton, the Nile explorer, and relative of that (rather shady) professor friend of my great-grandmother's.  Although, I like the Arabic word "safra" better, it seems more poetic.

I decide that I will learn a few words and phrases of Arabic in the upcoming days.

www.destinyvoyages.com/Egypt2009/

Egypt & The Nile with Juliana Coles March 11-22, 2009

Maat - Kheru; True of Voice

Expedition Log - Coles & Granger Ltd. Expeditions - The Lost Letters from Egypt - 19 days before Expedition Launch.

February 20, 1922, Dear Diary; yesterday evening, before sunset, I climbed unnoticed to the top of the Great Pyramid. There I awaited the sky goddess Nut, to watch her body arch itself against the cloak of the heavens.  Each night Nut swallows the sun and then returns it again by day. I stayed through the night, hugging myself against the chill, and contemplated the dazzling  milky way, the otherworldly reflection of the Nile, or upper egypt, as it were.  As above, so below. At dawn I carefully climbed down the massive uneven stones at the northeast corner of the pyramid, waved to a surprized guard, and returned to the Mena House to gather up my belongings.

I have only one more day in modern Cairo before we set sail to a more ancient world along the Nile. I will miss Cairo and the warm, friendly people in it.  All the farewell cups of tea have been sipped and the teary hugs dispensed with.  Goodbyes are difficult, but my thoughts are on the future, or in my case of dualities, the past. We will follow the silhouettes of the many pyramids that stand in a 40 mile chain along the edge of the Western Desert.  First Khufu's, Menkhaure's, and Khafra's, and then Zoser's step pyramid, gleaned through thick groves of palms, with the crumbling pyramids of Abusir beyond and then the pyramids of Dashur.

It is really fortuitous, the way my path has collided with that of Professor Burton.  There is a Turkish word, kismet- in Arabic, they say Kesma- the unknowable workings of destiny.  Our common point of interest is our fascination with Egypt's lost past.

Now here I must add my most important discovery thus far that has to do with intuition, or perhaps something more than that:  While atop the Great Pyramid, I must have dozed off. In this sleep, I had a dream of a golden cat with a strange cartouche on his forehead which I have never seen before. When I returned to my room, I unwrapped my golden cat to take a closer look. No, no cartouche... but wait a minute... has it been painted over?  With a razor blade I carefully attempt to peel a layer...good heavens! There is a cartouche! Could it be an unknown King? The hieroglyphs spell out Tutankhamun...

Dear Diary: February 20, 2009: I am beginnng to question the validity of my grandmother's journal. This entry is downright scandalous! How can it possibly be true? Perhaps that is why the family never spoke of her, or only in hushed voices. She was a freak: a liar, a fabricator!  Is any of this true? I am flooded with doubts and feel I have been reading nothing but fiction... but her voice feels so sincere, and yet, how can I accept this latest "discovery" of hers? Why is there no mention of it in history? Anyways, in an effort of joy and a sort of celebration for the sketch I did yesterday, I had my photos taken at the drugstore, and sent in my appliction for a passport. I can dream too, can't I?

    "What if, one day, you fell down and lost consciousness, and when you woke up you found strange memories in your head?  And what if you pursued those memories, only to discover that they had instead been pursuing you?"  -Hanny el Zeine

www.destinyvoyages.com/Egypt2009/

Egypt & The Nile with Juliana Coles March 11-22, 2009

Learning to Draw Sphinxes

Expedition Log - Coles & Granger Ltd. Expeditions - The Lost Letters from Egypt - 20 days before Expedition Launch.

February 19, 1922, Dear Diary; Time to be packing for my journey on the Nile.  It is one thing to have all my chests of clothes and supplies at the Mena House, but I will need to pare down to essentials for the Dahabiyya voyage.

I of course will be carrying my journals and sketchbooks, plus some pens and some paints and brushes, to document my findings and to remember the journey.  Not everything is suitable for use in the field, and I will be limited in what I can use.  Time to experiment a little with my sketchbook and a few supplies, and check that they will be suitable for the upcoming days.

Dear Diary: February 19, 2009; Oh I wish I were as talented as my great-grandmother.  I really can't draw, but something made me sit down and just start.  I looked at a picture of the Sphinx, and just drew his outline, and it wasn't too bad, so I added some pyramids.  As for the color, well, I didn't have any brown in front of me, but I had some blues and reds, so I used those.  Anyway, by using the 'wrong' colors it made me look more at the details of the outline of the great Sphinx rather than trying to get the 'right' color.  I'm fascinated by shapes, and textures, so this was kind of fun.  I think I'd like to learn to draw lions too.

Oh!  It wanted to be a postcard!  So, I added some stamps and postmark and some writing.  'Greetings from "Fascinating Cairo"', like they called it on the old vintage Dahabiyya postcard.   Although, now I'm a little sad, because it makes me wish that it was me making that sketch in Cairo and sending that postcard.  I'm not like my great-grandmother.  I never go anywhere.

www.destinyvoyages.com/Egypt2009/

Egypt & The Nile with Juliana Coles March 11-22, 2009

Habiba / Beloved

Expedition Log - Coles & Granger Ltd. Expeditions - The Lost Letters from Egypt - 21 days before Expedition Launch.

February 18, 1922, Dear Diary; I must ready my belongings for my voyage up the Nile;  I wish I had one of those pirate chests of olde: the kind  Blackbeard had- with a secret lock on the outside- a false one for those to tamper with, then inside, a seperate compartment with another key and another lock. My trunk will have to suffice.  However, I believe, at this point, it is best to carry my cat and journal on my person at all times. I cannot be certain, but I get the feeling someone has been tampering with my things. But packing will wait! I want to experience all I can of Cairo while I am here!

I rise at dawn and head off into the pale mist of desert dust. I settle into a nearby cafe. "I will have  a strong coffee, my friend."  "No Madame, please do not be in such a hurry."  "Excuse me?" I respond,  and my waiter continues on to decribe for me a delightful story of Cairo's first day, July 6, 969. He explains how a group of Moslems called Fatimites had thundered east from what is now Tunisia and conquered Egypt for themselves. They strung ropes over bare earth to mark the limits of their new capital. Bells dangled from the cords so astrologers could signal the moment when the stars would favor the work. Laborers waited to begin the walls. Astrologers calculated. Suddenly a crow perches on one of the ropes. The bells jingle and workmen leaped into action. So, while the planet El Qahir - Mars- was ascendant, a bird founded El Qahira - the Martian - as the Arabs named their city.  Ever since, Cairo has been the capital of Egypt.

"Yes, Madame, please write my story in your book, no?"  "Of course Abdel, you pour my coffee, and I promise I will transcribe your story. Many thanks." In this short time the locals have recognised my constant companion, my journal, and often offer advice as to what I should write or sketch. While drinking my coffee, I do a quick sketch, a terrible likeness, I must say, of the breathtaking beauty at the next table. She is conscious of my drawing and seems to pose patiently for my picture. "What is your name," I ask her at last. "Habiba." I tear out her picture and offer it to her as a gift for the Beloved.

Dear Diary: February 18, 2009; There is a tear here, where a page has been removed. I wish I could see it. I wish I could draw. I brought my materials and my skecthbook, but haven't started anything. How did she ever get started?

Dahabiyya Postcard

Expedition Log - Coles & Granger Ltd. Expeditions - The Lost Letters from Egypt - 22 days before Expedition Launch.

February 17, 1922, Dear Diary;  After the incident at the museum, Professor Burton insisted that I cancel my plans to take the Cook's Steamer, and travel with him instead on the Dahabiyya Hadeel.  I let him think they were after my field notes, although I fear it must be the golden cat that has brought danger into my world. 

I think the Cook's Steamer would be perfectly safe, actually, but a chance to travel the Nile on a dahabiyya is too exciting to pass up.  Small, but with luxurious appointments.  A chance to dock in small uncrowded moorings away from the large steamers.  Sailing instead of steam powered.

Mostly, though, I think there is some link between my golden cat and the unpublished discoveries by that Carter fellow.  I'm certain that Professor Burton is well aware of the connection and his invitation is NOT entirely out of concern for my own well-being. The truth is, I need very little persuasion to take this Nile journey on the Hadeel.  For I intend to solve the mystery of the golden cat.

Dear Diary, there is an old postcard in my great grandmother's things, of a Dahabiyya (Dahabeah) on the Nile, and written in an elegant hand is a cryptic message:  'My great observational power is explained by the fact that I have reveled in Egypt.  I really believe that [...] that identical search in the Cairo Museum.  I rather suspected that you had been in "Fascinating Cairo."' 

The postmark is dated 4 years after the date on the message, though.  It is all very strange. 

www.destinyvoyages.com/Egypt2009/

Egypt & The Nile with Juliana Coles March 11-22, 2009

Glittering Gold

Expedition Log - Coles & Granger Ltd. Expeditions - The Lost Letters from Egypt - 23 days before Expedition Launch.

February 16, 1922, Dear Diary;  Professor Burton leads me into the museum, past the entry room, behind the reception desk, through the door marked forbidden, and down a long hall. The Museum, after hours, without all its visitors, is spooky. There are strange noises and long shadows in the dim lighting. I half expected a mummy to jump out and grab me! "This way Madame Kelly, I think you will find this collection quite interesting. I, of course, must ask for your complete confidence, as this material has not yet been published.  Are you familiar with our man in the field, a Mr. Carter?" "Who, Howard? I thought he was in England."  "Why no, he is here, in the Valley of the Kings. Do come in." I enter and  am astounded by the glittering gold. It is overwhelming. "Professor Burton, this is..." "Yes, I knew you would be pleased. These are the recent findings of Sir Howard Carter. I cannot really tell more but..."  "Excuse, me, Prof. Burton, there is an urgent call for you," exclaims the dark skinned secretary, who I recognize as one of the seductive dancers from the cabaret, but say nothing. "I am so sorry, but I must take this. I hope you do not mind."  " You must attend to your business. I will be delighted to remain here, if that is all right with you."  "Yes, yes. Excuse me!"

The statues and jewelry were exquisite! That hack Carter - what astounding luck!!!!!!!!! I was about to open my journal to do some sketches- I have never witnessed such treasures in all my days in the field - when I am aware someone has quietly entered this anteroom. "Professor Burton? Professor Burton is that you?' I clutch my satchel tightly and try to steel myself behind one of the standing sarcophaguses. "Madame, I know you are in here. Please reveal yourself and I will not hurt you." Famous last words and I do not dare budge from my hiding place. I can hear footsteps creeping nearer. Suddenly the lights go out. I can hear his breathing. He steps closer and grabs me from behind. "Where is the golden cat, hmmm?" and his grip on my arm gets tighter.  "Unhand me!" In that moment, the lights go back on and the Professor enters the room with his booming voice, "How terrible, I am so sorry, you must have been frightened in the dark!" My visitor releases his hold and exits through some other door behind me. "Oh my heavens! Professor!"  "Please forgive our electricity here we...but you are terrified, I can see that! Let us reschedule our visit, please." And he puts his arm around my shaking shoulders. I do not resist.

Dear Diary; I cannot believe no one ever spoke of this to me! I don't understand.  This story is so incredible! Things are really getting exciting as grandmother confides her tale of danger to the professor, while leaving out the details of the golden cat, implying the intruder was after her notes, and Professor Burton forbids her to take the Cook's Steamer from Cairo. He tells her he just so happens to be sailing that same day onboard the Dahabiyya Hadeel, and demands her presence.  In all the commotion, she never did question him about her strange hieroglyph sketch...

www.destinyvoyages.com/Egypt2009/

Egypt & The Nile with Juliana Coles March 11-22, 2009

The Scarab Pendant

Expedition Log - Coles & Granger Ltd. Expeditions - The Lost Letters from Egypt - 24 days before Expedition Launch.

February 15, 1922, Dear Diary;  A little tipsy from my apertif, I leave the barge, headed for the museum, without my bag. Realising my oversight, I rush back to the bar. There is a man, unseemly for this type of high class tourist and British floating bar, about to grab my satchel. I catch him mid grasp, "Excuse me, my dear fellow."  "Ah yes! Madam, this must be yours, no?" "It is mine, yes." as  I grab it back. He most certainly is not employed by this establishment, but I make no implication of it. "Thank you so very much, Sir," and I hurry off, but with a sense of, let me say, discomfort. I have had the feeling for days of being watched. I am not a woman given to hysterics. I best watch myself and my belongings, especially all my research, for I fear trouble is underfoot. I'll make no mention of this to professor Burton, but intend to be my charming and lively self. Sometimes it pays to be a dimwitted broad.

I arrive five minutes before our scheduled meeting.  The professor is in front,  waiting for me. With a calm demeaner I exclaim, "Oh Professor, I am so delighted and extremely honoured to get this rare invitation to explore the museum with you!"  "Ah Yes, Miss Kelly, it is but my pleasure to show you our rare collections and to get your insights - I have read all your published papers on Egyptian Antiquity, and the honour is all mine. This way..." And the doors to a world of undescribable treasures is opened for me. I enter with the giddiness of a school girl!

February 15, 2009, Dear Diary; today is my father's birthday. My grandmother's journal makes his passing tolerable, though I spent a lot of time on the phone today with my sister who was crying, not believing, nearly a year later, that he is no longer here. And I am thankful for the connection to what may be a fantasy, but honestly, keeps me grounded, and excited for each new day. She is my relationship, an ongoing stream of family that goes beyond me, beyond my great grandmother to perhaps Egyptian times. I can dream anyways. Her journal pages stir so much within me. The sketches from the museum of ancient head dresses and scarab pendants are extraordinary. She has also copied some Egyptian poetry, so beautful and timeless. Neverending stories of love and desire.  What is to become of me?  Where is my own life? What am I sitting at home waiting for?

www.destinyvoyages.com/Egypt2009/

Egypt & The Nile with Juliana Coles March 11-22, 2009

Nebamun

Expedition Log - Coles & Granger Ltd. Expeditions - The Lost Letters from Egypt - 25 days before Expedition Launch.

February 14, 2009, I start to read the next day's entries.

February 14, 1922, Dear Diary; I can barely think about the events of the evening at the Museum ...

Suddenly, I hear a visitor approaching, and quickly close the diary and hide it away.  I'm not sure why. 

But this image reminds me of the special I saw on PBS regarding the Collection at the British Museum, where some of the greatest tomb paintings of Egypt recently went on display.  Created for a middle-ranking official by an unknown artist, lost for thousands of years before discovery in the 1820s, then spirited away to the basement of the British Museum until recent years.  The secret of the original location of Nebamun's Tomb died with the Greek grave-robber who discovered it.  These fragments were restored and placed on display again just a few weeks ago, after being hidden for centuries.

An achingly beautiful and lifelike scene of a handsome hunter on a papyrus skiff, with his lovely wife and daughter, catching Egyptian red geese.  Nebamun is accompanied by his faithful tawny-striped whiskered tabby, who is helping himself to the catch.  An early SEACAT!!! 

It is said that other fragments from the tomb were about to be spirited from the Cairo Museum shortly after World War II.  However, they were intercepted, then photographed and stored in the great vaults below the museum, where their location has once again been lost.

Ah, to think of all the mysterious artifacts still hidden away in dusty museum recesses.  Perhaps my great-grandmother stumbled across a similar find that long-ago evening in the Cairo Museum.  I wish I had her courage to visit far-off places.  I keep her diary to myself, a treasure, like it is my own far off travelers journal.

(Image from exhibit at the British Museum)
http://www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/2009/jan/04/british-museum-egyptian-nebamun-tomb

www.destinyvoyages.com/Egypt2009/

Egypt & The Nile with Juliana Coles March 11-22, 2009

The Mysterious Character

Expedition Log - Coles & Granger Ltd. Expeditions - The Lost Letters from Egypt - 26 days before Expedition Launch.

February 13, 1922, Dear Diary; I can barely wait for my visit this evening at the museum with Prof. Burton. I have been reviewing my books and notes because there is much I would like to speak with the Professor about. Many years ago I acquired this sketch created by the French artist, Vivant Devon who  was part of the small group of artists, scientists and surveyors that was dedicated to the study of the Valley of the Nile during Napolean's conquest of Egypt. In the hieroglyphs on the right, there is a character I have never seen before. Of course I would never reveal this sketch to anyone, I say, how I came by it is a bit questionable, and I have no intentions of losing it to the authorities! So I am making a small sketch of the character to see what the Professor can make of it, if anything. It is quite curious. Perhaps when I take the streamship up the Nile to some of the monuments from the New Kingdom, I will get to see this image from the tomb for myself! Meanwhile, I really can barely contain my excitement! Ah Egypt, the land ancient to even the ancients!!!! What mysteries you hold!  I have decided to take a cocktail on one of the floating barges while I await my appointment with Prof. Burton. I was about to run out, when I decided to wrap my golden cat in a scarf and place it in my satchel. Off I go!"

Dear Diary, February 13, 2009;  I am so caught up in my grandmother's travels!  What an amazing woman!  I would love to travel myself, but I keep thinking of all the things that hold me back. So many "but firsts..."   They seem legitimate, and so I never leave. I was hoping to read more of great grandmother's journal, but I heard someone coming up the drive and quickly locked it away again. But diary, I am considerig beginning my own sketchbook. It feels very brave and scary. I'll need some tools. My first step, of course, is to choose my journal or sketchbook. I wonder if there's anything in Grandma's trunk I could use?  There is still so much in there I havent even sorted through. Her expediton journal has kept most of my attention!

(Journal Page by Egyptian Terri Ross)

www.destinyvoyages.com/Egypt2009/

Egypt & The Nile with Juliana Coles March 11-22, 2009